Iyarhe Ipan, Swany’s Ridge & Quirk Ridge

Kananaskis, AB, Canada

6 December 2020

Solo

 

Uncrowded and unexciting

 

With its conspicuous vertical cliff band and huge talus slope below, Iyarhe Ipan (meaning “mountain point” in the Stoney language) looks like an intriguing little peak that might hold more surprises in store, especially compared to neighboring Prairie Mountain. However, this is not the case – it’s merely another small forested bump, except it has a steep drop-off on the western side offering decent views of the Front Ranges. It also sees way less traffic than the super popular Prairie workout mountain, which is no surprise: you have to ford the Elbow River first to get to the other side and then there isn’t really a well-established trail to guide you to the top.

The first section is a steep ascent through mossy forest, but thankfully the bushwhacking is minimal. I aimed slightly right and ended up on a very faint trail that goes up the crest of the ridge toward the huge cliff bland that defines the mountain’s NW side. A flagged section of trail goes around the left of the cliff in the trees – no scrambling required. Unusually for December, I had almost no snow today but I can imagine that in the middle of winter this section might be problematic if the snow is deep.

Shortly after I was at the ridge top enjoying sunny views of all the nearby foothills like Prairie Mountain, Vents Ridge, Mustang Hills, Powderface Ridge, flanked by bigger snow-capped peaks in the back. The ridge walk to the summit was nice, the trail switching between trees on the left and bare rock on the crest. The summit cairn is entirely surrounded by trees, but then again what can you expect from a peak that’s not even 2000 m in elevation!?

It took me about 1.5 hours to get to Iyarhe Ipan’s summit – a short trip and I somehow felt it wasn’t quite enough yet to justify the river crossing. My plan for extending the day was to do a loop taking in Swany’s Ridge and Quirk Ridge along the way.

Swany’s Ridge is easily reached from Iyarhe Ipan by continuing south along the ridge (faint trail, some deadfall), then making a sharp left (cairn, flagging) and heading through very light forest and open meadows up to this minor highpoint. The highrises of Calgary can be seen quite nicely from here and I was pleasantly surprised by how clear the view of the city was. Swany’s Ridge appears to be the realm of dirt bikers and ATVers as evidenced by the tire-rutted tracks and the odd discarded beer can. An official dirt bike trail continues south to the top of Quirk Ridge, where it turns into a wider ATV track. A small outcrop of craggy conglomerate forms the summit, a nice spot to sit and take a break. Some people clearly like this area for camping, too.

From the top of Quirk Ridge I followed the boring ATV road down into the valley to the south. It was partially iced up and a pretty unpleasant affair. The track then crosses Quirk Creek over a bridge to the west side of this broad grassy valley, where it intersects an even bigger ATV road running north-south. As soon as I started hiking north on this road I regretted my decision. Not that there was a lot of traffic (I only saw two ATV’s the whole day), but it was all in the trees and simply a boring walk. What I should’ve done instead was stick to a faint trail that I could now spot on the other side of the valley, right on the lower sun-bathed slopes of Quick Ridge. There seems to be a recently reclaimed logging road here with a narrow path running above or below it. Although it would eventually involve a creek crossing further north, this would without a doubt be a much more scenic route.

For me the most interesting part of the day was the very last section in the valley. After leaving the ATV trail I continued on a disused logging road and eventually reached its end in a large cutblock. Now all that was left between me and my car was a fairly long stretch of terrain unknown to me with nothing shown on my maps. This is a really interesting area, so close to the road yet it feels so remote and so pristine. I stumbled upon the odd trail, lost them again, then came across hunters camps, ended up along the banks of the Elbow River, then found another mysterious camp, and eventually landed on a faint trail marked by pink flags that took me to a fording point further west of where I had parked my car. I left the trail and continued NE through easy forest back to where I had stashed my old sneakers, which were by now all frozen and hard to put on again.

My loop route can probably only be recommended to those who don’t mind some off-trail hiking and lots of routefinding – chances are you will get lost in the terrain on the east side of the river, but I do think the area has a certain charm. The alternative would be to simply return the same way along the ridge top.

Elevation:

Iyarhe Ipan:  1944 m  (my GPS)

 

Swany’s Ridge:  1917 m  (my GPS)

 

Quirk Ridge:  1983 m  (my GPS)

Elevation gain:

1030 m

Time:

7.5 h

Distance:

20.9 km

Difficulty level:

Easy (Kane), T2 (SAC)

Reference:

Spirko and own routefinding

Personal rating:

2 (out of 5)

DOWNLOAD ROUTE (GPX FILE)

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The Elbow River with Iyarhe Ipan’s treed north ridge behind.
Soft moss and light forest Aon the steep lower slopes.
Approaching the big cliffband.
There’s a faint trail that goes around the left side of the cliff in the trees.
Looking back down Iyarhe Ipan’s north ridge.
At the summit ridge – finally some sun! Prairie Mountain on the right seems huge compared to little Vents Ridge in the centre.
Close-up of Prairie Mountain summit. Tons of hikers out there today.
Cars lining the side of highway 66 are parked just before the winter gate (closed Dec 1st to May 15th every year). The vast majority of visitors are out on Prairie Mountain.
The eastern side of the summit ridge is flanked by a steep drop-off.
These four always go together: Banded Peak, Outlaw Peak, Mount Cornwall and Mount Glasgow (L to R; the summit on far left is just an outlier of Banded).
Compression Ridge
Iyarhe Ipan summit ridge.
Some easy scrambling on the ridge. Sometimes the trail veers left into the trees to avoid the narrowest parts.
Looking back along the ridge.
Swany’s Ridge as seen from Iyarhe Ipan summit.
Quirk Ridge summit is still far in the distance.
Summit cairn of Swany’s Ridge with beautiful Mount Glasgow in the background.
Iyarhe Ipan as viewed from Swany’s Ridge. The eastern side of I.P. is completely covered with forest.
Looking east along Swany’s Ridge. The city of Calgary can be seen on the horizon on the right.
Calgary highrises.
On a dirt bike trail towards Quirk Ridge.
Quirk Ridge.
There are some nice Front Range views here and there.
This is a close-up of Glasgow North (the minor bump on the right) and Garriochmill Peak (centre), a highly enjoyable loop route I completed a week earlier. Mount Glasgow on the left eclipses both of them.
Looking back along Quirk Ridge.
The “summit” of Quirk Ridge is atop this small outcrop of typical foothills conglomerate.
A boring ATV road heads down the south side.
This is a popular ATV area. Forgetmenot Mountain in the back.
Feels more like a warm spring day than December!
Once again on a boring ATV road heading back north.
The ice on frozen Quirk Creek is just thick enough to hold my weight.
This is where the logging road ends and the routefinding in the forest begins. Iyarhe Ipan in the back.
Some really scenic and quiet spots along the Elbow River.
One of several hunter’s camps in the valley.